Ahhhh. Sweet, sweet thesis break.
I have suddenly had a slew of friends and family (alright only two) ask me about my (brief) trip to Angkor Wat, the massive temple complex in Cambodia back in 2004, so I thought I would post an journal entry from that trip and some pertinent information.
20 March 2004
at Ta Prohm
Bella, you and I are surrounded by gum-chewing urchins selling us little bronze trinkets. But I already bought two today for $2 and yesterday two for $3. Five or six kids milling around.
We came here for a little peace – to write in the journal – but we’ve been so beset it’s hard to concentrate.
What the?! I just looked back through the journal and I haven’t written once since we’ve been in Cambodia! Pathetic, as you would say. Tell me and I’ll remind you because my brain is fresher, you would say.
We came back to Ta Prohm because it was our favorite place and we ran out of camera battery yesterday – that was before you sprang out of sight and was lost from me for fifteen minutes or so – I thought you had been taken as a child slave. When I finally heard your voice tearfully yelling, MOM! – you ran into my arms crying. Later you insisted that you could have found me yourself – giving no credit to the guide who was with you.
A good lesson probably; you’ve stayed close to me ever since.
This morning Preah Kahn and Ta Som, but even I am getting templed out.
Then we went to the book and stationary store for an English-Kmer-English dictionary, pencil, and lead. The dictionary I wrapped up to mail to the guy who asked me for money to buy a dictionary at or near Bakong. He approached me and asked if he could practice his English and we spoke for ten minutes or so. Then as I got ready to leave the inevitable happened; he asked for money (to buy a dictionary) – which I can’t believe I hadn’t anticipated. Very smooth operation. In my obstinate fashion, I didn’t give him money, but took down his address to send him a dictionary.
I had intended to follow through, but then I thought, why am I sending this con artist a gift? (granted only $3, but still) and decided to give the dictionary to our driver Bora instead. Bora, who has been faithful these last three days – totally attuned to us and waiting patiently in the heat… It is here in my lap now.
Then I had a massage by the blind – which was curious – he had good hands – very gentle and firm – but not as deep a massage as I like. Only $3 and I was very relaxed afterwards.
[later… Bora drove his motorcycle alongside our taxi to the airport as we left Siem Reap. He was grinning and waving his new dictionary the whole time *smile*]
Angkor Wat information:
We flew in from Bangkok and I remember we needed to get visas in advance. There was also an airport tax, coming and going from Cambodia. Once at the little airport there are lots of men jostling for your business.
We bought a 3-day pass for Angkor Wat ($40). The complex is spread out over 60 miles and every individual temple needs to be driven to. We hired a motorcycle driver for all three days. The main complex is beautiful at sunset – and of course always very busy. We went there first.
Plan to be very hot and dusty – and to walk and climb a lot. You should plan to wear long pants or skirt and keep your shoulders covered to show respect. No need for a guide, because it is fascinating just to wander about. I did occasionally eavesdrop on the passing tour guides, but they were never saying anything very interesting.
Bora: Friendly motorcycle driver. Drove us anywhere and everywhere for $8/day. Speaks very little English. (855) 12. 95. 03. 73 or 012. 95. 03. 73
Sarin Yim: Friendly taxi driver. Good English. (855) 012. 772. 736 email: sarinyim@yahoo.com. Offered to drive us in an air-conditioned cab and be a guide for $25/day
Popular Guest House: Vun Chum, manager (855) 12. 916165 / 16 952332. Typical guest house – was the first one I saw in the guidebook at the airport. $5/night. Small restaurant on the roof – everybody loves kids. We were perfectly content here.
Palm Village: an upscale resort a little bit out of town. Bella and I spent one day swimming there and thought it would be the perfect place for Mom and Dad to stay. Individual beautiful little huts, gorgeous tilework, yummy food. At the time it was off-season and rooms were $35/night. Check out the pictures at their website.