A Drinking Club with a Running Problem

Normally when I travel I like to have an adventure or two – but my biggest adventure this trip may have been to a mall at the other end of town, where I learned the art of book binding for free from some very cute Thai art students. (I bought 10 bookbinding kits to bring home and to share at a meetup sometime in the near adventure. I hope my crafty mom friends think that sounds fun!)

On the other hand Songbae and Joss have had some real adventures.

Have you heard of the Hash Run Harriers?

None of us had.

Songbae had heard only that they were a running club that liked to drink afterwards and his running buddy in San Francisco had recommended he look up a club when he got to Bangkok. Apparently, she had done it in Uganda, and recommended it as a way to keep running while abroad.
So he looked one up in Bangkok and invited Joss along. They left here around 5pm on a Monday to take a taxi to some godforsaken meeting place an hour outside of Bangkok. It sounded interesting.

After a number of garbled phone conversations, (“THIS IS INSANE! I CAN’T EXPLAIN! THIS IS INSANE!) they came home stumbling blind drunk at about 2 am in the morning. Sue and I were up. Not quite as toasted as they were. But buzzed and knitting probably, because that’s what we’ve done for fun a few times when the babies have gone to bed.

What the hell, right?
So, according to Songbae and Joss:

They showed up to the meeting spot late and there was nobody there, except two overweight white guys smoking cigarettes. Songbae and Joss leapt out of the car and asked if they knew anything about the hash run. Between slow puffs, the guys casually pointed down a road and said they would not have a problem catching up. They said, “Follow the paper.”

With no understanding of what the guys meant, Songbae and Joss started running. They were after all, there to run. They did wonder briefly who those guys were: If they knew about the run, why weren’t they running? And what the hell does it mean to “follow the paper”???

They got to an T-intersection: to the left was a dirt road leading into the jungle and to the right the pavement continued. Naturally, they continued on to the right. Twenty minutes went by. They had seen no other runners.

Songbae was beat. It was hot (it’s always hot here) and since they had turned right whenever there had been an intersection, they were now nearly back to where the taxi had dropped them off in a golf club parking lot. Songbae and Joss agreed to turn back and call it quits when suddenly
they saw two other runners up ahead. They sprinted up and joined them. Sure enough it was a group of hash harrier runners.
Relieved, Songbae and Joss fell in with them.

To discover that that the group was following a path that had been marked earlier by intermittent piles of shredded paper. And strangely the run seemed to have no logic at all; in fact, it seemed entirely insane and it was not easy to follow the paper.

These small piles of paper would sometimes end in an “X” pile at which point, one runner in the group would shout out, “FAN OUT! FAN OUT!” because an “X” meant that the trail could go in ANY direction and the runners had work together to find the next pile. It got stranger still.

Sometimes the paper trail went through jungle and the runners were leaping over roots and clawing tree branches out of their faces. Other times they were bursting out onto town streets or running through private backyards or running alongside rice paddies. One time they ran through the middle of a Buddhist temple (a “wat”) and another time they had to crawl over BARBED WIRE (Joss came home with the marks to prove it).

Sometimes the trail just dead-ended and was discovered to be a false trail, at which point the group had to backtrack until they found the trail again.

This was clearly no typical jog through Golden Gate Park, but rather some psychopathic bootcamp survival game. CLEARLY.

Songbae and Joss stuck with it for 1 1/2 hours.
1 1/2 HOURS THEY RAN FOLLOWING LITTLE PILES OF PAPER WITH A GROUP OF STRANGERS.

Until there was no more paper to be found or until it got too dark. There the story gets muddled. In any case, they tramped back to the golf club parking lot, where they proceeded to guzzle and guzzle alike with the other runners with beer that had been stashed in the trunk of the cars. A tailgate party of sorts.

It gets stranger still.
Did you see the last movie Tom Cruise made with his first wife, Nicole Kidman: Eyes Wide Shut? What Songbae and Joss described about the next bit sounded something bizarre like that, but frat house-style. (You can take a minute here and check it out on wikipedia – the guy in charge is called a “kennel grandmaster” or “religious advisor” and the management of a has group is generally referred to as “MisManagement.”  Are you getting creeped out? Be forewarned: the next section contains a description of the misuse of a dildo.)

Perhaps a comparison to Eyes Wide Shut is a stretch. There was no sex involved, just sex toys.

In any case, the guy who seemed in charge starting clapping his hands and shouting out, “Let’s get started!” and people started to circle up around the barker and a small table filled with glasses of beer.  Something like toasts started. The leader would begin a toast, usually filled with foul language and inappropriate epithets and the group would end by singing some kind of theme song. The person thusly toasted would then come up and chug a beer.

From there, all the new people were invited forward. I imagine that they might have been hesitant.  After being asked a couple of yelled questions from the audience, seemingly innocent questions, like “Where are you from?!” and answering “San Francisco,” the inevitable happened. Songbae and Joss were dubbed  “The Gay Twins of San Francisco.” Fortunately this was not an official naming, as there is a ceremony for official names (and keep in mind that if you complain about a name you are likely to be renamed something even more offensive), but “The Gay Twins of San Francisco” it was for the rest of the night (and for the rest of the vacation!)

This went on, getting more raucous and politically incorrect, until they got to the the Prick of the Week Award. At this point in the story, every time Songbae tells this story, he says with a deep sigh, “I am SO GLAD we didn’t get Prick of the Week.”

??

He says that people were randomly nominated for the Prick of the Week Award and that if your name was called you had to go up and join the other nominees at the center of the circle.

Again, he says, “I am SO GLAD we didn’t win.”

After a few choice things were said about each nominee, then the votes were cast via clapping, hooting, and hollering, when the leader held his hand over the nominees’ head. The Gay Twins of San Francisco got a lot of applause. In fact, so much so that the leader called for a tie-breaker. Mind you, the last time Songbae was in this position, winning by mob appeal, he was in a dancing contest on a cruise ship – and he went home with the first place trophy!

The Gay Twins of San Francisco lost by a decibel of a handclap.

The winner of the Prick of the Week Award had the dubious honor of strapping a dildo on over his forehead, another one, this one with buttocks, around his waist, and then chugging a beer in a glass that looked suspiciously like it was ALSO in the shape of a dildo while the crowd chanted and sang the hasher’s theme song. (I can’t really imagine how that song would go…)

Posted in running, Thailand | 5 Comments

Nak! Nak!

Me, Ti-ti, and snake.

“Nak” is one of Christian’s newest words. (He adds to his vocabulary hourly. This morning he woke, smiled, then pointed to my eyes and said, “eye”.) “Nak” means “snake” and reveals how much he was impressed by the snake farm we visited yesterday.

Well, okay, the snake farm may not be so impressive to grown-ups, but it is worth a visit to see venom being extracted from REAL COBRAS at 11 am.

The Queen Saovabha Memorial Institute (10 min walk from Saladaeng BTS, but it’s not so easy to find, so we jumped in a tuk-tuk – don’t let them overcharge you: a tuk-tuk to the snake farm from the BTS should only cost 30 baht) was opened in 1929 as the second snake farm in the world. It is a research and treatment facility that produces several kinds of anti-venom. There are only six venomous snakes in Thailand out of the 180 species there, and most are on view at the snake farm.

When we showed up we thought perhaps it was closed because everything was so quiet, but that’s just how the place looks. The ticket price was quite a bit more than the guidebook stated – 200 baht instead of 60 baht, but still that’s only $6 so we didn’t complain. There is a much cheaper ticket price for locals, but so be it.

I headed to the restroom right away to give Christian a potty break, and just outside in the hallway was a sleepy looking Thai guy in a white lab coat handling a snake. He immediately wanted me to hold and handle the snake, which I could see was mild-mannered, small, and I hoped, not venomous. When I did, he wanted to take our picture with my camera. It was all very informal and friendly in a Thai way. No words were exchanged.

Whispering sweet nothings to his pet snake during the demo.

Whispering sweet nothings to his pet snake during the demo.

He turned out to be one of the lab techs who handled the milking of the venom during the demonstration. That pet snake of his was in his pocket and kept creeping out as the woman speaking explained the lofty goals of this institution run by the Red Cross. And it was there while he was handling 5-foot long cobras too.

The demonstration of venom extraction was fascinating. You sit in a small stadium-seating auditorium facing a windowed white room – it looks like a hospital room or research lab with a plain white bed/table with a simple contraption featuring a glass funnel, tubing, and glass jars at one end. Note: for the best view, sit in front of this contraption (the security guard, who had already taken a hankering to Christian, ushered us there). The assistants took a large writhing snake out of a white plastic bin with their bare hands and with the help of a metal hook succeeded in getting the head over to the table. Then using the flat end of wooden rod, one assistant firmly squashed the snake’s head down on the table, so he could then hold the snake directly behind its jaw with his bare hand.

The kids look more interested than they really were - they preferred the close-up views of snakes in the glass terrariums.

The kids look more interested than they really were - they preferred the close-up views of snakes in the glass terrariums.

Then he brought the snake over to funnel and tried to get the snake to bite the funnel’s upper lip. Like a petulant toddler, the snake twisted his head back and forth with his lips sealed tight, in a firm NO. Finally the pressure of the funnel edge made him mad and he suddenly lunged and bit. Once those jaws were open wide the handler pressed the cobra’s mouth against the funnel’s edge and several teaspoons of pale yellow venom ran down the side of the funnel, through the tube and dripped into the jar below. It was spine-chilling to see that much cobra venom run out of his mouth. The procedure was repeated for another snake, and then the FIRST snake was brought back, and more venom was extracted from him. I’m sure that the woman talking was saying some interesting things, but I was all eyes.

Venom flowed like honey from this snakes mouth.

Snake reluctantly giving up all his venom to make anti-venom.

That was the best part of the snake farm. Upstairs though, was interesting too with live snake eggs (only three??) in an incubator, chilling real-life photos of snake bite injuries, and “bottled” snakes of all types.

Most of the preserved snakes were too distorted to be of real interest.

Most of the preserved snakes were too distorted and gruesome to be of real interest to me.

The kids enjoyed exploring the the grounds. It was not huge, but practically arranged: there was a boardwalk that you followed around various outdoor snake compounds. Here are two vids: one of Sue and Noi naa looking for snakes and another of Noi naa helping Ti-ti walk up the ramp.

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iSVAVK1dC-Q]

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zqqMgpMD0bU]

In sum, this isn’t a tourist activity I would recommend to somebody with only a few days in Bangkok, but it was a nice outing overall for the kids.

Posted in critters, Thailand | 1 Comment

I Heart Noodle Soup

I leave Bangkok in less than 48 hours and I’m in a bit of a panic that I might not get another noodle soup before I go.

The famed noodle soup

The famed noodle soup

This is a soup that we’ve been having for dinner about three times a week since I’ve been here.

I feel something for noodle soup akin to what Winona Ryder expresses in the 90’s movie Reality Bites: cradling her Big Gulp, she says something like, “I love my Big Gulp. It gives me all the calories I need for the whole day…”

I love my noodle soup because it feels like such a wholesome nourishing dinner. There’s the homemade noodles – you see them piled up on the inside of the glass in flour-y mounds – I like the green ones. There’s always a heaping pileful in each bowl of soup. Then the slices of tender pork and bright green leafy greens for my protein and vegetable. I savor too, the surprising crunch of a spoonful of pork crackle thrown in (or least that’s what I imagine it to be). And the broth.. the broth! Rich and clear and incredibly flavorful chicken stock with scallions that you can’t help but down to the very last drop. It’s so addictive that I’ve asked a half dozen people if they think there’s MSG in it and the universal consensus is that if there is, it can’t be very much because nobody gets MSG symptoms.(And so far nobody buying the noodle soups has known how to ask about MSG in Thai – everything is done by pointing and a few key words – Like, “Four soups, please – to go” and “Yes, yes, extra dumplings, please.”)

And best of all it costs a mere 30 baht. That’s with the extra stuff: three dumplings. One dollar.

So why aren’t I running down to the soi this instant? Well,  it’s nearly 11 pm. The time is not the issue; the noodle cart only opens up late at night, usually around 8 pm and caters to the late crowd and stays open until the wee hours or until the cauldron of broth is gone. And it’s not even raining anymore. The massive thunderstorm has abated and the frogs are going full force.

It’s that Sue and I are here alone with the two babies this week (Songbae went with Joss to Laos to be his photography assistant) and Sue hasn’t emerged from putting Noi naa to sleep and I can’t very well run off without somebody keeping an ear out for Christian. (Her bedroom is at the opposite end of the apartment from the guest room.) I can’t blame her either as she’s been working full-time this whole week AND staying up nights with me drinking scotch, laughing, and knitting.

In fact, ALL my noodle soups this month have been delivered to me either by my very accommodating brother or equally accommodating brother-in-law and they’re not here.

I’m pining for a noodle soup.

This is two noodle soups.

This is two noodle soups.

But I do have to admit a dirty downfall of noodle soup take-away: everything comes in a plastic bag. EVERYTHING. The broth comes in one scalding hot bag, the rest of the food in another, and then a small one filled with a light vinegar and chili sauce that can be added to the soup. And all that’s put into yet another plastic bag. It’s not very ecological. But that’s Bangkok. Everything comes in a plastic bag, even Coke.

This can be avoided by eating there. Although the noodle soup comes from a cart on the side of the street, if you buy a soup to eat there, somebody kicks open a card table, sets a few condiments down and finds you a plastic stool to sit on. In fact, the entire sidewalk for about 30 feet gets completely taken over by this makeshift restaurant space. I love doing that, but with the kids and their bedtime – I can’t manage it this time around and I’m very appreciative of take-out, despite all the plastic we’re consuming.

Sue handing me my Coke in a bag.

Sue handing me my Coke in a bag.

Posted in food, Thailand | 7 Comments

More Noi naa Cuteness

I know you’ve seen Bella and Songbae doing Hip Hop Abs – but it went on day after day! And we got a lot of funny video clips. This one is a funny one of Noi-nee.

P.S. Bella did Hip Hop Abs every day the last ten days she was here in Thailand after taking my brother up on a challenge.

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m7Mo-HHcEYQ]

Posted in Nabi Grace, Thailand | 2 Comments

The Cooking Habit

I’ve completely lost any desire to cook. It’s not just the heat or the expense and bother of getting Western ingredients, but that the prepared food here is not only dirt cheap but delicious!

I’ve been a month and I haven’t cooked a meal yet. I’ve fried bacon, once for bacon and egg sandwiches, and a second time for the pancake brunch that Songbae and Joss whipped up last weekend. Besides that, I’ve toasted a few bagels for breakfast and brewed a few pots of tea.

That’s all.

Unbelievable.

And unbelievably relaxing.

We often run out at night to pick up dinner on the soi. Pad thai is 35 baht ($1) and mussel omelet is also 35 baht ($1). Once when my parents were here we got 7 pad thais and 3 mussel omelets, which proved to be more than ample enough food for dinner. Total cost of dinner for nine people? Ten dollars. It was a delicious feast to boot.

My mom and Sue playing cards (Korean hwa-toe) to see who pays for dinner.

My mom and Sue playing cards (Korean hwa-toe) to see who pays for dinner.

PS. Sierra: they’re playing on the silk that you’re getting as a souvenir – check it out!

Posted in food, Thailand | 2 Comments

Joyful Reunion

Sue’s back from South Africa today! I hadn’t realized that she’d had to travel for almost 20 hours. Whew – that’s me next week. She’s been gone for 8 days. We all have tomorrow together (going to some crazy brunch at the Shangri-la) and then Monday Joss and Songbae leave for Laos (also work-related). Lots of coming and going here. They get back on Thursday and Christian and I depart for the States on Friday.

Six more days left here for us.

Anyhow, we’re all glad to have her back safe and sound. Noi naa especially; they’re napping together as I write.

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rDEelwNYDXM]

Posted in Thailand | 2 Comments

Dwarf Song

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w_DEyax3tm4]

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oU6OW3ImAfY]

Dwarf Song
Little dwarves so short and strong
Heavy-footed march along
Every head is straight and proud
Every step is firm and loud.

Pick and hammer each must hold
Deep in earth to mine the gold
Ready over each one’s back
Hangs a little empty sack

When their hard day’s work is done
Home again they march as one.
Full sacks make a heavy load,
As they tramp along the road.

Posted in waldorf | 3 Comments

Letter to Christian at 15 Months

Dear Ti-ti (since that’s what everybody calls you here – following Noi naa’s lead),

You are having the blast of your little life here in Bangkok. You adapted very quickly and now as soon as you sit up and open your eyes (yes, sometimes in that order), you point to the door and demand to be taken out to the rest of the apartment to see who else is awake (um, usually everybody).

Noi naa has a pretty enormous collection of fun toys – so you are always entertained by some new contraption. The only trouble is that everything belongs to Noi naa and as soon as she sees you have it – well, she wants it MORE. Still, she’s been pretty good about sharing and also learning how to trade you for things. And anyway, a little push and pull with a sibling-like cousin won’t hurt any; if anything, I like that you know that you don’t always get your way.

You watch and watch and watch. You are pretty impressed with how she swims across the pool (all the way across the width!) and you duck your head in periodically to see how it feels. You are also talking a lot more. When the kind grown-ups in your life hand you a toy, you respond politely “thank you” with a little Thai intonation. And yesterday when Joss asked Noi naa what color something was (she’s very into colors) you were lying on the bed and I distinctly heard you say “red” and “geen.”

!!!

I don’t think these corresponded to any colors you saw, but that you knew that those words were one correct response to a question involving colors. I was pretty impressed.

You and Noi naa really adore each other and often stop just to smooch or hug. This is a clip from the airport when we dropped Bella off. You are making sure that Noi naa is getting some of your mango sorbet.

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UPbzmWT6zTo]

You’ve really been getting attached to your uncles and aunt too. When I put you down on your feet, it’s not MY hand you want to hold, it’s Songbae’s or Joss’s. Often I carry Noi naa (in the Beco!) and somebody else has got you for the walk down to the skytrain.

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bqYSYl7-CvE]

We skype with your dad every few days and he always puts a grin on your face. Then you say “da-da” over and over again during the rest of the day, chuckling to yourself. We’ll see him soon – in less than a week.

You with Daddy, already 1 1/2 months ago. Look how much littler you look.

You with Daddy, already 1 1/2 months ago. Look how much littler you look.

You’ve been cutting two molars on the right side of your mouth and that’s been driving you a little crazy. Luckily you’re still nursing like a pro, so when eating solid food gets too painful, you nurse up a storm. And I don’t mind burning the extra calories, because I’ve been eating treats off the soi like a fiend.

With friends at the La Leche League Toddler Meeting (first Wednesday of every month at Cabot Park).

And while you’ve been enjoying your time here, I think you’ll enjoy seeing your old friends back in Laguna Niguel as well. Just last night you caught sight of Anna and Aiden on my computer and you started shouting and pointing. You haven’t forgotten them in the least.

I love you Baby. You’re a trooper traveler like your big sister Bella (whom you now call Babla). I have so much fun with you.

Love,

Mama

Posted in Christian Holden, Thailand | 2 Comments

My Jetset Girl

The garden courtyard at Crepes & Co where we had brunch. The gardens are always that lush here.

The garden courtyard at Crepes & Co where we had brunch. The gardens are always that lush here.

We dropped Bella off at the airport Tuesday night and she flew back to the States all by herself! She arrived at LAX after 9 pm, and then had to turn around and get to John Wayne Airport the next morning by 8 am to fly to NYC with her best friend.

Headed out down the soi an dpassing some construction. Note the

Headed out down the soi an dpassing some construction. Note the tricked out dump truck.

She (and I) were a little concerned because the “direct” flight here had included a 2-hour layover in Tokyo. And although we reboarded the same plane, we still had to disembark and go through security again. Luckily for Bella, the flight home was on Thai International (we purchased the tix through United) and was indeed a direct flight. She has been sending regular text updates (her phone to my computer):

“Im in the car.
The flight was good
It was a direct flight and everyone got their ow tvs with tons of movies
And the food was really good
Salmom and pumpkin ravolio!”

Note that she knows that I would have asked what kinds of meals were served. A foodie like her mom. And then when she got to NYC:

“Hey mom
So we got here last night
Then we walked around times sqaure then had dinner at this really yummy italien restaurant then we walked up to the empire state building it was so pretty at night
Its about 845 on thursday and i think today is our museum day and then billy elloit
Miss you
Bella”

It cant have been easy to have been the only teenager on the trip...

It can't have been easy to have been the only teenager on the trip...

A last gelato at the airport before leaving.

A last gelato at the airport before leaving.

It feels strange to have her gone. She did have a good time with her aunt Sue, and uncles Songbae and Joss, and my parents. Besides all the grilling of her future plans she often got to choose what she wanted to do for the day (Songbae took her to MBK several times!), lots of loving attention, and money slipped into her pocket before she left.

And now who’s going to Hip Hop Abs with Songbae??

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-SpGtCra8Eg]

Posted in says bella, Thailand | 2 Comments

The New Fountain

Sue and Joss’s apartment building just got a new fountain installed. Thai fountains tend to be exuberant and a bit random; this one is no exception. It pleases the two babies to no end (although they look stoic here).

Waiting for the rest of the grownups, so we can go swim and have dinner at the Bangkok British Club.

Waiting for the rest of the grownups, so we can go swim and have dinner at the Bangkok British Club.

P.S. We’ve discovered that the only way to deal with making plans with so many people (and permutations of combinations of those people) is to simply announce that you are ready and that you’ll be waiting downstairs. That way, all the people who say they are ready, but on their computer waiting for YOU to be ready, finally put on their shoes and move out the door.

Posted in Thailand | 5 Comments